April 22-25:
We were warned by our tour company in Canada of the poverty we were to see in southeastern Peru and Bolivia. And a neighbor of ours in Mexico who used to travel to the region with the Canadian government described Bolivia as “lawless”. Yes, people here don’t live the lifestyles of Calgarians, but we don’t see much begging and there are lots of smiles wherever we turn. And, no, Bolivia is not lawless…far from it today.
The trip south for us from Cusco is a world away, regardless. We board the train for the 10-hour journey in a valley near the Andes. This excursion is ranked among the top train trips on the world for its beauty. Again, like the Machu Picchu line, it is owned by the London company which operates the Orient Express. This train is much more luxurious than its Inca sister. Tony is seated with some Greek travelers – a father and his daughter -- and they have seen nothing like it in Europe. This train has white linen and flowers on the tables and overstuffed chairs. Asparagus soup or Alpaca Carpaccio is served as an appetizer at lunch. There are three choices for entrees. Later at 4:00 pm there is afternoon tea.
Our Greek friends are delightful. The father owns a construction company in Athens and loves to hunt ducks in exotic countries like the Sudan. He’s treating his daughter to a 30-day Peruvian holiday as a graduation present as she’s just completed her architecture degree in Greece and will take graduate studies in restoration either in England or New York. Tony talks business with dad and shares music with daughter on their respective iPods.
There is one stop on the trip – a market along the tracks at the highest point of the trip, about 14,000 feet. Tony is a sucker for the tough selling tactics of Peruvian natives. This time, after several “no por favors”, a squat lady in colorful dress leaves a sweater on his shoulder and walks away. Tony is next seen reaching into his pocket for $40 soles or USD $13. The vendor maintains it is handmade from baby Alpaca. Later Alana and Ruth see a street kiosk with five just like it in Puno.
Puno is one of the fastest growing cities in South America. It is situated along the shores of Lake Titicaca. The lake is the highest navagatable body of water in the world, as well as being one of the largest at 8200 square kilometers. Jacques Cousteau brought attention to the lake with his expedition in 1968 when he discovered the Uros Islands made of reeds. Rising six metres above lake level, the islands are anchored by logs and connected to each other by ropes. The same reeds are used to make boats, and we later meet the Lamachi Brothers in Bolivia, who gained infamy sailing grande reed boats across the Atlantic and Pacific to prove that perhaps the world’s civilizations are more connected than once believed. In fact, Pharoic diagrams can be found in Egypt showing something very much resembling reed boats sailed by the Lamachi’s.
People live on the islands sustaining themselves through fishing and making handicrafts to sell in visitors. The islands need to seen to be believed. Cousteau also found the largest amphibian in the world in Lake Titicaca.
We also visit Taquile Island on this tour of the Peruvian side of the lake. UNESCO has the bestowed a special title on the island for this handmade textiles, each a piece of art.
The only hiccup on this day is leaving the dock when protestors confront boat drivers. We have seen several protests by tour guides in Peru over the past 19 days. The guides we’ve had are all excellent, university educated on history, culture, and flora and fauna. Most speak more than two languages. Up until now, guides are required to have such training, but the government is proposing relaxing laws so anybody can be a guide.
The following morning we are up early again to snake our way along the lakeshore road on the way to the Bolivian border. We are greeted on the Bolivian side by Carlos, our guide. He is the great-grandson of a former Bolivian president. Due a stroke of luck with scheduling, we have two hours in the original Copacabana. The Copacabana name has been borrowed everywhere. Most famous is the beach of the same name near Rio in Brazil. Copacabana is also home to Bolivia’s most treasured Virgin Mary. During Holy Week, some devout Catholics walk three days from La Paz to visit her. She is considered extra special due to darker skin pigment. The cathedral is extraordinary – although we’ve concluded every cathedral we’ve visited so far in South America is extraordinary for their own special features.
From Copacabana we board a hydrofoil for a trip to Sun Island, believed to be the birthplace of the Incas. From here we resume the hydrofoil trip to Huatajata, on the Bolivian shores of Lake Titicaca. Here we overnight and are treated to an incredible tour of the universe through the lens of a telescope donated by NASA. Scientists from NASA descend on these parts every year to study the planets and different galaxies. We can see why on this night as the clear sky reveals more twinkling lights than darkness.
Alana takes ill the following morning, but it is short-lived. Her system cleared, we make the short 90-minute drive to La Paz, the capital. Albertans would think they are driving on the eastern slopes of the Rockies until we arrive at the Alto City. On the outskirts of La Paz, this city has sprung up under the force of massive migration from rural areas. Locals believe over the next 10 years it will house more people than the 2-million in La Paz. It has the feel of the Wild West. Carlos’s stories of the local justice confirm our gut feeling.
As we exit the Alto City, Carlos has us close our eyes for a “special treat”. Ruth and Alana cheat by squinting. Tony doesn’t. On his command we open our eyes and we have arrived to a magical valley city called La Paz (Spanish for ‘Peace”). In the background are huge mountains, covered by glaciers; the city is cradled in the valley of the foreground.
We spend the day touring city, made more beautiful in recent years under the guidance of a mayor, nicknamed the “The Gardener” through his efforts to beautify by planting flowers and trees on every median, street, park and boulevard.