Wednesday, April 22, 2009

April 15-21:
We’ve arrived at 12,000 feet in the incredible city of Cusco – the gateway to Machu Picchu. During the next few days we will trek to 15,000 feet on our way to one of the new Seven Wonders of the World and the adopted spiritual centre of the Inca civilization.
For some perspective the top of the Summit T-bar at Lake Louise is 9,000 feet.
The altitude is on every visitor’s mind. It prompts sudden dizziness excruciating headaches, tingling fingers and nose bleeds. In some cases it hits so severely oxygen has to be administered. As a precaution we brought prescription drugs for altitude sickness, and we are using them.
The local remedy is coco tea (yes, from the same leaf as cocaine). The natives drink the tea and chew on the leaves to alleviate sickness and give them energy. Our hotel serves the tea 24/7 and we are encouraged to drink the tea immediately upon our arrival. No argument from Ruth or I. Alana worries about an addiction at 12 years old.
Luckily, there is no rain in Cusco. This will give us a chance to dry out and launder our muddy clothes from our stay in the jungle. Ruth and Alana also picked up a mysterious eye infection in the jungle that left them both with eyes half-closed and gooey.
Laundry is charged by the kilo and we have 15 kilos of wet, dirty clothes.
Our hotel is a historic site, a 16th century hacienda that has been restored, including original artwork found under several layers of paint.
We begin our seven days in the region with a tour of the Sacred Valley. We start with Pisac, famous for its Sunday Mass and native market. Later in the day, we stop at the junction of three valleys where the fortress of Ollantaytambo resides with its magnificent mountain stairway. Intriguing is the enormous six pink stones found at the site. Each weighs approximately 50 tons and was brought to the site from the other side of the river, several kilometers away. How these massive stones were transported is still a mystery to historians and archaeologists alike as the Incas did not use the wheel.
Every ruin seen leaves a visitor awestruck and questioning how the construction was possible.
Last stop on the day is Chincheros and a visit to an old colonial church – the South American Sistine Chapel with original paintings on the walls and ceilings. Residents here are also known throughout Peru for their handmade textiles – each a piece of art. We buy a wall-hanging from a lady who laid out her wares on the plaza.
Our trip to Machu Picchu the following day begins with a four-hour van ride into the Andes. If any readers have attempted the drive between Kimberley, BC and Creston through the mountains will have some appreciation for our drive to the little town of Lares and the trailhead. It is filled with hairpins turns and 500-metre drops off the side of the one-lane dirt road.
Lares is the home of hot springs. We consider ourselves adventurous but we could not dip our toes in the water, let along our entire bodies. The water is brown.
We expected others on the trek, but soon discovered the crew of five (a guide, cook, assistant cook, two wranglers and four pack horses) is for us only. We will be sleeping in tents and for the three days.
A better known trek is the Inca Trail, but it must be booked eight months in advance. The Inca Trail eventually takes you directly to Machu Picchu by foot, but through cloud forest and at much lower altitudes. It is also full of gringos.
The Lares Trek takes you into the high Andes and through villages where Indians live their traditional lives and see few outsiders. There are alpacas and llamas and sheep everywhere. We only saw a couple of other white faces in our three days.
Our first stop is the tiny village of Huacawasi. We camp in what appears to be a family’s yard, surrounded by chickens, roosters, pigs and dogs. Barking dogs keep us awake for part of the night. Despite the altitude we feel no serious effects yet. The first day is a warm up as we will ascend to the mountain pass on Day 2.
The 6:15 wake-up call comes much too early. It is made easier as the cook delivers hot coco tea to the tent. Ruth wonders why she doesn’t get this service from Tony at home. We will be climbing uphill all morning. Abra Huacahuasikasa (or Huacahuasikasa Pass) is our goal. It is at 15,200 feet. David our guide explains that they brought an extra horse in case one of us is overcome by altitude or exhaustion. Alana and Tony touch fists in an endearing sign of solidarity that they will both make it to the top without assistance.
Despite the paucity of trekkers, village people still set up their goods hoping for buyers. Tony succumbs and becomes the proud owner of an authentic, hand-made alpaca toque for $20 soles or USD $7.
Ruth starts to experience a tingling feeling in her fingers from the altitude. The higher elevation means less atmospheric pressure, which leads to larger blood vessels and lower blood pressure. Consequently, less blood makes it to the extremities.
Our pace slows as the climb continues. It’s fascinating to see farming all along the way. Terraces are built into the side of the mountains and potatoes are grown. In Peru they have 4000 varieties of patatoes. They also raise alpaca, llama and sheep. An enduring image for Tony is catching the glimpse of a young Indian girl running – yes running!! -- to catch us. We learn she is nine years old and her family had sent her alone to the pass to herd sheep. She looks about six, compared to Alana. Her smile is contagious. It is around this time Ruth’s nose starts bleeding and Alana develops a severe headache and begins to see spots out of the corner of her eyes. Tony gets a boost after borrowing our guide David’s walking sticks and has no apparent issues with the altitude. Handicappers would not have put a bet on Tony being the strongest trekker on this day.
The extra horse will get a workout. At a rest stop some 400 metres from the top, David suggests Alana rides the remaining distance on the horse. Tears well up in her eyes as she's determined to do it alone. After explaining how important it is to alleviate the risks immediately, Alana succumbs and gets on the horse and is led to the top by the wrangler. Alana admits her disappointment went away quickly when she felt the warmth of the horse and could breathe again. It is very cold at 15,000 feet even under a clear sunny sky. We all don extra layers and trudge on one foot after another until the summit is reached. We hold a brief celebration then start to head down the steep trail to a mountain lake in eyesight, where lunch will be served. Ironically, Tony finds it more difficult going downhill than up. He snags David’s walking sticks again.
We did not dine on typical camp grub. The cook is well-trained in preparing meals on a gas stove. Meals are authentic Peruvian and gourmet. Our main courses are lamb, beef, chicken, pork, alpaca….guinea pig is popular in Peru but none is served as I think there is an appreciation that North Americans don’t like to eat their pets.
Meal conversations are lively and entertaining and last until we finish the kettle of hot water for coco tea and hot chocolate.
David is particularly entertaining. He can discuss any subject from politics to the effect of snake venom on a human’s kidneys and does it with a terrific sense of humour.
After reaching the summit, the rest of the trek is a blur for Tony. He’s already thinking about the train to Aguas Caliente and Machu Picchu.
Alana’s first train ride is one to remember. David is joining us and we board a single train car that is empty. Due to some freak event, we get the entire car to ourselves. David had finished telling us a story earlier in the day about the rich Saudi prince who bought an entire car for him and his entourage. We felt like the Blue-eyed Sheikhs of Alberta. The rail line is owned by the same company that operates the Orient Express. The trip is extremely picturesque through the mountains, following the white waters of the river below. We each get a front window seat to ourselves, beside the conductor. We can see directly down the tracks and could watch frequent switching activity.
Aguas Caliente is a quaint but touristy town with no car traffic. It is the end of the rail line and is where anybody who wants to get an early start at Machu Picchu stays. We are surrounded by Asians and Americans and Europeans. From here the only way to the site is by coach or walking. The road up is closed to all other traffic.
The first bus is 5:30 am for the opening a half-hour later.
David started guiding 30 years ago and learned his craft at Machu Picchu. By his estimate he’s visited the site 1000 times and there is nobody better for the job. The train from Cusco will arrive mid morning so David figures a 7:30 am start will give us a few hours before the crowds. He’s also become sensitive to Alana’s need for sleep. She is not shy to tell him.
Ruth’s journal entry describes her impression: “Machu Picchu is amazing!!! Different than I expected and different than any pictures I have seen. We have continued luck with another sunny day and the contrast of the huge mountains (pichus in their local language), deep gorges and the Machu Picchu site is dramatic.”
Tony later shared his impressions with a Japanese visitor and they both agreed the beauty of the site is not just in the ruins but in the surrounding mountains, which photos don’t do justice.
A surge of spirituality flows through the bodies of many who see the site for the first time.

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