May 14-17:
From ice to flowing water – lots of flowing water. We left the cold and ice of El Calafate in southern Argentina for the warm tropical climate of Iguazu, the incredible falls straddling the Brazil-Argentina border. We are heading back north for the first time on this South American trip, foreshadowing the end is near.
Iguazu is a Guarani Indian name meaning “big waters.” Movie buffs will know the falls from the great epic film “The Mission.” The waterfall system consists of 275 falls along 2.7 kilometers of the Iguazu River. It is considered one of the “Seven Natural Wonders of the World”.
For Canadians and others who have visited, comparisons with Niagara are inevitable. Upon seeing Iguazu, the United States' First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed "Poor Niagara.” Iguazu is taller than Niagara but Niagara has 50 per cent more water flow. Iguazu is much more accessible with a series of footpaths and trains allowing visitors to stand perched right over the edge of the biggest part of the falls – the Devil’s Throat. At one point a person can stand and be surrounded by 260 degrees of waterfalls. The Devil's Throat has water pouring into it from three sides. As well, Iguazu is split into many relatively small falls, so these can be viewed one portion at a time.
There is no Niagara-like Made of the Mist boat that takes you on water near the falls, but for the adventurous there is a speed boat that goes upstream in the whitewater and actually takes you right under one of the falls. We chose this option and got a good soaking. Tony maintains it was one of the coolest things he’s ever done.
Visitors to Niagara often leave disappointed in the town as it is filled with hotel towers and tacky gift shops. Iguazu Falls are in National Parks of both Brazil and Argentina and have little development. A wide variety of birds, mammals and reptiles fill the parks, including the elusive jaguar and several poisonous snakes.
The one blight on the Argentinean side is a Sheraton in the park. Allegedly it got the nod from a former dictator of the country to build in the park when Argentina hosted the soccer World Cup in the 1970s. Our guide suggested a commission was exchanged for the right to build.
We spent a full day on the Argentinean side viewing the falls and another half-day on the Brazilian side. Never bored.
Outside of the falls, the towns supporting the tourists are interesting but not destinations on their own right. We stayed on the Argentinean side, about two blocks from a beautiful park that sits at the junction of two rivers and three countries. To the left you could see Paraguay, and to the right Brazil.
We re-encountered the brilliant red soil, last seen in the Amazon basin in Peru.