April 22-25:
We were warned by our tour company in Canada of the poverty we were to see in southeastern Peru and Bolivia. And a neighbor of ours in Mexico who used to travel to the region with the Canadian government described Bolivia as “lawless”. Yes, people here don’t live the lifestyles of Calgarians, but we don’t see much begging and there are lots of smiles wherever we turn. And, no, Bolivia is not lawless…far from it today.
The trip south for us from Cusco is a world away, regardless. We board the train for the 10-hour journey in a valley near the Andes. This excursion is ranked among the top train trips on the world for its beauty. Again, like the Machu Picchu line, it is owned by the London company which operates the Orient Express. This train is much more luxurious than its Inca sister. Tony is seated with some Greek travelers – a father and his daughter -- and they have seen nothing like it in Europe. This train has white linen and flowers on the tables and overstuffed chairs. Asparagus soup or Alpaca Carpaccio is served as an appetizer at lunch. There are three choices for entrees. Later at 4:00 pm there is afternoon tea.
Our Greek friends are delightful. The father owns a construction company in Athens and loves to hunt ducks in exotic countries like the Sudan. He’s treating his daughter to a 30-day Peruvian holiday as a graduation present as she’s just completed her architecture degree in Greece and will take graduate studies in restoration either in England or New York. Tony talks business with dad and shares music with daughter on their respective iPods.
There is one stop on the trip – a market along the tracks at the highest point of the trip, about 14,000 feet. Tony is a sucker for the tough selling tactics of Peruvian natives. This time, after several “no por favors”, a squat lady in colorful dress leaves a sweater on his shoulder and walks away. Tony is next seen reaching into his pocket for $40 soles or USD $13. The vendor maintains it is handmade from baby Alpaca. Later Alana and Ruth see a street kiosk with five just like it in Puno.
Puno is one of the fastest growing cities in South America. It is situated along the shores of Lake Titicaca. The lake is the highest navagatable body of water in the world, as well as being one of the largest at 8200 square kilometers. Jacques Cousteau brought attention to the lake with his expedition in 1968 when he discovered the Uros Islands made of reeds. Rising six metres above lake level, the islands are anchored by logs and connected to each other by ropes. The same reeds are used to make boats, and we later meet the Lamachi Brothers in Bolivia, who gained infamy sailing grande reed boats across the Atlantic and Pacific to prove that perhaps the world’s civilizations are more connected than once believed. In fact, Pharoic diagrams can be found in Egypt showing something very much resembling reed boats sailed by the Lamachi’s.
People live on the islands sustaining themselves through fishing and making handicrafts to sell in visitors. The islands need to seen to be believed. Cousteau also found the largest amphibian in the world in Lake Titicaca.
We also visit Taquile Island on this tour of the Peruvian side of the lake. UNESCO has the bestowed a special title on the island for this handmade textiles, each a piece of art.
The only hiccup on this day is leaving the dock when protestors confront boat drivers. We have seen several protests by tour guides in Peru over the past 19 days. The guides we’ve had are all excellent, university educated on history, culture, and flora and fauna. Most speak more than two languages. Up until now, guides are required to have such training, but the government is proposing relaxing laws so anybody can be a guide.
The following morning we are up early again to snake our way along the lakeshore road on the way to the Bolivian border. We are greeted on the Bolivian side by Carlos, our guide. He is the great-grandson of a former Bolivian president. Due a stroke of luck with scheduling, we have two hours in the original Copacabana. The Copacabana name has been borrowed everywhere. Most famous is the beach of the same name near Rio in Brazil. Copacabana is also home to Bolivia’s most treasured Virgin Mary. During Holy Week, some devout Catholics walk three days from La Paz to visit her. She is considered extra special due to darker skin pigment. The cathedral is extraordinary – although we’ve concluded every cathedral we’ve visited so far in South America is extraordinary for their own special features.
From Copacabana we board a hydrofoil for a trip to Sun Island, believed to be the birthplace of the Incas. From here we resume the hydrofoil trip to Huatajata, on the Bolivian shores of Lake Titicaca. Here we overnight and are treated to an incredible tour of the universe through the lens of a telescope donated by NASA. Scientists from NASA descend on these parts every year to study the planets and different galaxies. We can see why on this night as the clear sky reveals more twinkling lights than darkness.
Alana takes ill the following morning, but it is short-lived. Her system cleared, we make the short 90-minute drive to La Paz, the capital. Albertans would think they are driving on the eastern slopes of the Rockies until we arrive at the Alto City. On the outskirts of La Paz, this city has sprung up under the force of massive migration from rural areas. Locals believe over the next 10 years it will house more people than the 2-million in La Paz. It has the feel of the Wild West. Carlos’s stories of the local justice confirm our gut feeling.
As we exit the Alto City, Carlos has us close our eyes for a “special treat”. Ruth and Alana cheat by squinting. Tony doesn’t. On his command we open our eyes and we have arrived to a magical valley city called La Paz (Spanish for ‘Peace”). In the background are huge mountains, covered by glaciers; the city is cradled in the valley of the foreground.
We spend the day touring city, made more beautiful in recent years under the guidance of a mayor, nicknamed the “The Gardener” through his efforts to beautify by planting flowers and trees on every median, street, park and boulevard.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
April 15-21:
We’ve arrived at 12,000 feet in the incredible city of Cusco – the gateway to Machu Picchu. During the next few days we will trek to 15,000 feet on our way to one of the new Seven Wonders of the World and the adopted spiritual centre of the Inca civilization.
For some perspective the top of the Summit T-bar at Lake Louise is 9,000 feet.
The altitude is on every visitor’s mind. It prompts sudden dizziness excruciating headaches, tingling fingers and nose bleeds. In some cases it hits so severely oxygen has to be administered. As a precaution we brought prescription drugs for altitude sickness, and we are using them.
The local remedy is coco tea (yes, from the same leaf as cocaine). The natives drink the tea and chew on the leaves to alleviate sickness and give them energy. Our hotel serves the tea 24/7 and we are encouraged to drink the tea immediately upon our arrival. No argument from Ruth or I. Alana worries about an addiction at 12 years old.
Luckily, there is no rain in Cusco. This will give us a chance to dry out and launder our muddy clothes from our stay in the jungle. Ruth and Alana also picked up a mysterious eye infection in the jungle that left them both with eyes half-closed and gooey.
Laundry is charged by the kilo and we have 15 kilos of wet, dirty clothes.
Our hotel is a historic site, a 16th century hacienda that has been restored, including original artwork found under several layers of paint.
We begin our seven days in the region with a tour of the Sacred Valley. We start with Pisac, famous for its Sunday Mass and native market. Later in the day, we stop at the junction of three valleys where the fortress of Ollantaytambo resides with its magnificent mountain stairway. Intriguing is the enormous six pink stones found at the site. Each weighs approximately 50 tons and was brought to the site from the other side of the river, several kilometers away. How these massive stones were transported is still a mystery to historians and archaeologists alike as the Incas did not use the wheel.
Every ruin seen leaves a visitor awestruck and questioning how the construction was possible.
Last stop on the day is Chincheros and a visit to an old colonial church – the South American Sistine Chapel with original paintings on the walls and ceilings. Residents here are also known throughout Peru for their handmade textiles – each a piece of art. We buy a wall-hanging from a lady who laid out her wares on the plaza.
Our trip to Machu Picchu the following day begins with a four-hour van ride into the Andes. If any readers have attempted the drive between Kimberley, BC and Creston through the mountains will have some appreciation for our drive to the little town of Lares and the trailhead. It is filled with hairpins turns and 500-metre drops off the side of the one-lane dirt road.
Lares is the home of hot springs. We consider ourselves adventurous but we could not dip our toes in the water, let along our entire bodies. The water is brown.
We expected others on the trek, but soon discovered the crew of five (a guide, cook, assistant cook, two wranglers and four pack horses) is for us only. We will be sleeping in tents and for the three days.
A better known trek is the Inca Trail, but it must be booked eight months in advance. The Inca Trail eventually takes you directly to Machu Picchu by foot, but through cloud forest and at much lower altitudes. It is also full of gringos.
The Lares Trek takes you into the high Andes and through villages where Indians live their traditional lives and see few outsiders. There are alpacas and llamas and sheep everywhere. We only saw a couple of other white faces in our three days.
Our first stop is the tiny village of Huacawasi. We camp in what appears to be a family’s yard, surrounded by chickens, roosters, pigs and dogs. Barking dogs keep us awake for part of the night. Despite the altitude we feel no serious effects yet. The first day is a warm up as we will ascend to the mountain pass on Day 2.
The 6:15 wake-up call comes much too early. It is made easier as the cook delivers hot coco tea to the tent. Ruth wonders why she doesn’t get this service from Tony at home. We will be climbing uphill all morning. Abra Huacahuasikasa (or Huacahuasikasa Pass) is our goal. It is at 15,200 feet. David our guide explains that they brought an extra horse in case one of us is overcome by altitude or exhaustion. Alana and Tony touch fists in an endearing sign of solidarity that they will both make it to the top without assistance.
Despite the paucity of trekkers, village people still set up their goods hoping for buyers. Tony succumbs and becomes the proud owner of an authentic, hand-made alpaca toque for $20 soles or USD $7.
Ruth starts to experience a tingling feeling in her fingers from the altitude. The higher elevation means less atmospheric pressure, which leads to larger blood vessels and lower blood pressure. Consequently, less blood makes it to the extremities.
Our pace slows as the climb continues. It’s fascinating to see farming all along the way. Terraces are built into the side of the mountains and potatoes are grown. In Peru they have 4000 varieties of patatoes. They also raise alpaca, llama and sheep. An enduring image for Tony is catching the glimpse of a young Indian girl running – yes running!! -- to catch us. We learn she is nine years old and her family had sent her alone to the pass to herd sheep. She looks about six, compared to Alana. Her smile is contagious. It is around this time Ruth’s nose starts bleeding and Alana develops a severe headache and begins to see spots out of the corner of her eyes. Tony gets a boost after borrowing our guide David’s walking sticks and has no apparent issues with the altitude. Handicappers would not have put a bet on Tony being the strongest trekker on this day.
The extra horse will get a workout. At a rest stop some 400 metres from the top, David suggests Alana rides the remaining distance on the horse. Tears well up in her eyes as she's determined to do it alone. After explaining how important it is to alleviate the risks immediately, Alana succumbs and gets on the horse and is led to the top by the wrangler. Alana admits her disappointment went away quickly when she felt the warmth of the horse and could breathe again. It is very cold at 15,000 feet even under a clear sunny sky. We all don extra layers and trudge on one foot after another until the summit is reached. We hold a brief celebration then start to head down the steep trail to a mountain lake in eyesight, where lunch will be served. Ironically, Tony finds it more difficult going downhill than up. He snags David’s walking sticks again.
We did not dine on typical camp grub. The cook is well-trained in preparing meals on a gas stove. Meals are authentic Peruvian and gourmet. Our main courses are lamb, beef, chicken, pork, alpaca….guinea pig is popular in Peru but none is served as I think there is an appreciation that North Americans don’t like to eat their pets.
Meal conversations are lively and entertaining and last until we finish the kettle of hot water for coco tea and hot chocolate.
David is particularly entertaining. He can discuss any subject from politics to the effect of snake venom on a human’s kidneys and does it with a terrific sense of humour.
After reaching the summit, the rest of the trek is a blur for Tony. He’s already thinking about the train to Aguas Caliente and Machu Picchu.
Alana’s first train ride is one to remember. David is joining us and we board a single train car that is empty. Due to some freak event, we get the entire car to ourselves. David had finished telling us a story earlier in the day about the rich Saudi prince who bought an entire car for him and his entourage. We felt like the Blue-eyed Sheikhs of Alberta. The rail line is owned by the same company that operates the Orient Express. The trip is extremely picturesque through the mountains, following the white waters of the river below. We each get a front window seat to ourselves, beside the conductor. We can see directly down the tracks and could watch frequent switching activity.
Aguas Caliente is a quaint but touristy town with no car traffic. It is the end of the rail line and is where anybody who wants to get an early start at Machu Picchu stays. We are surrounded by Asians and Americans and Europeans. From here the only way to the site is by coach or walking. The road up is closed to all other traffic.
The first bus is 5:30 am for the opening a half-hour later.
David started guiding 30 years ago and learned his craft at Machu Picchu. By his estimate he’s visited the site 1000 times and there is nobody better for the job. The train from Cusco will arrive mid morning so David figures a 7:30 am start will give us a few hours before the crowds. He’s also become sensitive to Alana’s need for sleep. She is not shy to tell him.
Ruth’s journal entry describes her impression: “Machu Picchu is amazing!!! Different than I expected and different than any pictures I have seen. We have continued luck with another sunny day and the contrast of the huge mountains (pichus in their local language), deep gorges and the Machu Picchu site is dramatic.”
Tony later shared his impressions with a Japanese visitor and they both agreed the beauty of the site is not just in the ruins but in the surrounding mountains, which photos don’t do justice.
A surge of spirituality flows through the bodies of many who see the site for the first time.
We’ve arrived at 12,000 feet in the incredible city of Cusco – the gateway to Machu Picchu. During the next few days we will trek to 15,000 feet on our way to one of the new Seven Wonders of the World and the adopted spiritual centre of the Inca civilization.
For some perspective the top of the Summit T-bar at Lake Louise is 9,000 feet.
The altitude is on every visitor’s mind. It prompts sudden dizziness excruciating headaches, tingling fingers and nose bleeds. In some cases it hits so severely oxygen has to be administered. As a precaution we brought prescription drugs for altitude sickness, and we are using them.
The local remedy is coco tea (yes, from the same leaf as cocaine). The natives drink the tea and chew on the leaves to alleviate sickness and give them energy. Our hotel serves the tea 24/7 and we are encouraged to drink the tea immediately upon our arrival. No argument from Ruth or I. Alana worries about an addiction at 12 years old.
Luckily, there is no rain in Cusco. This will give us a chance to dry out and launder our muddy clothes from our stay in the jungle. Ruth and Alana also picked up a mysterious eye infection in the jungle that left them both with eyes half-closed and gooey.
Laundry is charged by the kilo and we have 15 kilos of wet, dirty clothes.
Our hotel is a historic site, a 16th century hacienda that has been restored, including original artwork found under several layers of paint.
We begin our seven days in the region with a tour of the Sacred Valley. We start with Pisac, famous for its Sunday Mass and native market. Later in the day, we stop at the junction of three valleys where the fortress of Ollantaytambo resides with its magnificent mountain stairway. Intriguing is the enormous six pink stones found at the site. Each weighs approximately 50 tons and was brought to the site from the other side of the river, several kilometers away. How these massive stones were transported is still a mystery to historians and archaeologists alike as the Incas did not use the wheel.
Every ruin seen leaves a visitor awestruck and questioning how the construction was possible.
Last stop on the day is Chincheros and a visit to an old colonial church – the South American Sistine Chapel with original paintings on the walls and ceilings. Residents here are also known throughout Peru for their handmade textiles – each a piece of art. We buy a wall-hanging from a lady who laid out her wares on the plaza.
Our trip to Machu Picchu the following day begins with a four-hour van ride into the Andes. If any readers have attempted the drive between Kimberley, BC and Creston through the mountains will have some appreciation for our drive to the little town of Lares and the trailhead. It is filled with hairpins turns and 500-metre drops off the side of the one-lane dirt road.
Lares is the home of hot springs. We consider ourselves adventurous but we could not dip our toes in the water, let along our entire bodies. The water is brown.
We expected others on the trek, but soon discovered the crew of five (a guide, cook, assistant cook, two wranglers and four pack horses) is for us only. We will be sleeping in tents and for the three days.
A better known trek is the Inca Trail, but it must be booked eight months in advance. The Inca Trail eventually takes you directly to Machu Picchu by foot, but through cloud forest and at much lower altitudes. It is also full of gringos.
The Lares Trek takes you into the high Andes and through villages where Indians live their traditional lives and see few outsiders. There are alpacas and llamas and sheep everywhere. We only saw a couple of other white faces in our three days.
Our first stop is the tiny village of Huacawasi. We camp in what appears to be a family’s yard, surrounded by chickens, roosters, pigs and dogs. Barking dogs keep us awake for part of the night. Despite the altitude we feel no serious effects yet. The first day is a warm up as we will ascend to the mountain pass on Day 2.
The 6:15 wake-up call comes much too early. It is made easier as the cook delivers hot coco tea to the tent. Ruth wonders why she doesn’t get this service from Tony at home. We will be climbing uphill all morning. Abra Huacahuasikasa (or Huacahuasikasa Pass) is our goal. It is at 15,200 feet. David our guide explains that they brought an extra horse in case one of us is overcome by altitude or exhaustion. Alana and Tony touch fists in an endearing sign of solidarity that they will both make it to the top without assistance.
Despite the paucity of trekkers, village people still set up their goods hoping for buyers. Tony succumbs and becomes the proud owner of an authentic, hand-made alpaca toque for $20 soles or USD $7.
Ruth starts to experience a tingling feeling in her fingers from the altitude. The higher elevation means less atmospheric pressure, which leads to larger blood vessels and lower blood pressure. Consequently, less blood makes it to the extremities.
Our pace slows as the climb continues. It’s fascinating to see farming all along the way. Terraces are built into the side of the mountains and potatoes are grown. In Peru they have 4000 varieties of patatoes. They also raise alpaca, llama and sheep. An enduring image for Tony is catching the glimpse of a young Indian girl running – yes running!! -- to catch us. We learn she is nine years old and her family had sent her alone to the pass to herd sheep. She looks about six, compared to Alana. Her smile is contagious. It is around this time Ruth’s nose starts bleeding and Alana develops a severe headache and begins to see spots out of the corner of her eyes. Tony gets a boost after borrowing our guide David’s walking sticks and has no apparent issues with the altitude. Handicappers would not have put a bet on Tony being the strongest trekker on this day.
The extra horse will get a workout. At a rest stop some 400 metres from the top, David suggests Alana rides the remaining distance on the horse. Tears well up in her eyes as she's determined to do it alone. After explaining how important it is to alleviate the risks immediately, Alana succumbs and gets on the horse and is led to the top by the wrangler. Alana admits her disappointment went away quickly when she felt the warmth of the horse and could breathe again. It is very cold at 15,000 feet even under a clear sunny sky. We all don extra layers and trudge on one foot after another until the summit is reached. We hold a brief celebration then start to head down the steep trail to a mountain lake in eyesight, where lunch will be served. Ironically, Tony finds it more difficult going downhill than up. He snags David’s walking sticks again.
We did not dine on typical camp grub. The cook is well-trained in preparing meals on a gas stove. Meals are authentic Peruvian and gourmet. Our main courses are lamb, beef, chicken, pork, alpaca….guinea pig is popular in Peru but none is served as I think there is an appreciation that North Americans don’t like to eat their pets.
Meal conversations are lively and entertaining and last until we finish the kettle of hot water for coco tea and hot chocolate.
David is particularly entertaining. He can discuss any subject from politics to the effect of snake venom on a human’s kidneys and does it with a terrific sense of humour.
After reaching the summit, the rest of the trek is a blur for Tony. He’s already thinking about the train to Aguas Caliente and Machu Picchu.
Alana’s first train ride is one to remember. David is joining us and we board a single train car that is empty. Due to some freak event, we get the entire car to ourselves. David had finished telling us a story earlier in the day about the rich Saudi prince who bought an entire car for him and his entourage. We felt like the Blue-eyed Sheikhs of Alberta. The rail line is owned by the same company that operates the Orient Express. The trip is extremely picturesque through the mountains, following the white waters of the river below. We each get a front window seat to ourselves, beside the conductor. We can see directly down the tracks and could watch frequent switching activity.
Aguas Caliente is a quaint but touristy town with no car traffic. It is the end of the rail line and is where anybody who wants to get an early start at Machu Picchu stays. We are surrounded by Asians and Americans and Europeans. From here the only way to the site is by coach or walking. The road up is closed to all other traffic.
The first bus is 5:30 am for the opening a half-hour later.
David started guiding 30 years ago and learned his craft at Machu Picchu. By his estimate he’s visited the site 1000 times and there is nobody better for the job. The train from Cusco will arrive mid morning so David figures a 7:30 am start will give us a few hours before the crowds. He’s also become sensitive to Alana’s need for sleep. She is not shy to tell him.
Ruth’s journal entry describes her impression: “Machu Picchu is amazing!!! Different than I expected and different than any pictures I have seen. We have continued luck with another sunny day and the contrast of the huge mountains (pichus in their local language), deep gorges and the Machu Picchu site is dramatic.”
Tony later shared his impressions with a Japanese visitor and they both agreed the beauty of the site is not just in the ruins but in the surrounding mountains, which photos don’t do justice.
A surge of spirituality flows through the bodies of many who see the site for the first time.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
April 12-15 – A 4:30 a.m. wake-up call in Lima after a few days of sight-seeing. Urghh!!! The consolation prize is we are heading this morning to Porto Maldonado and the Amazon Basin in eastern Peru. Our destination is Sandoval Lake Lodge, home of the famous South American giant otters – six-foot monsters that are now extinct in Brazil, Argentina and Chile. Our flight from Lima first makes a stop in Cuzco where we double back to in four days and start our trek to Machu Picchu. We arrive in Porto Maldonado around 11:00 am to a hot, muggy day. This city of 100,000 is filled with shanty homes, dotting dirt roads. The most popular mode of transport is motorcycles. They are everywhere.
Our guide Herbert (“or you can call me Luis”) is a 26-year-old Peruvian Indian, drawn to the jungle for its beauty and peacefulness. He also doesn’t due well in the Andes Mountains due to a lung ailment. Herbert speaks four languages and hails from a town of 200. “We all know each other,” he tells Tony.
After distilling our large backpacks into small duffel bags, we head to the Madres de Dios (Mother of God) River, where a 30-foot skinny motor canoe is awaiting. We head southeast for 30 minutes to a ranger station guarding the entrance to the Tambopata National Reserve. This is also the trailhead for our 4-kilometre hike further into the jungle along a path with mud up to a foot deep. We are at the tail-end of the rainy season.
Herbert warns us not to touch anything as there could be poisonous plants and snakes along the way.
A short way in, Alana takes an accidental dive into the mud. She falls again a few minutes later. Non-plussed, we all forge on.
We spot two types of monkeys, out of five in the area, on the way, along with numerous birds and insects. The Gardner ants are busy cutting leafs and moving them along their highways. No snakes are seen, thank goodness.
At the end of the trail, paddle canoes await us with one of our porters at the helm. Surprisingly, he had beaten us there despite carrying the duffel bags of five guests. Even the two porters carrying a large, full propane tank arrive before us.
Robert is our paddler today. He too is a local, who recently turned 18 and can now legally work in Peru. We learn that a few years ago from this same dock, a local Indian was attacked by a seven-foot anaconda snake. The snake lung at him and bit his arm, then wrapped his body around the man and tried to squeeze the life out of him. An amigo fortunately happened upon the attack and shot the snake dead with a shot-gun. The man lived but suffered permanent damage to his arm.
There are several species of snakes at Sandoval. If the anacondas don’t get you, perhaps the bushmaster might. These are ferocious, and bite at about knee height on humans. The lodge keeps a pickled bushmaster in a jar near the buffet table that was killed nearby. If it looks like Tony is preoccupied with snakes, it’s because he is and chiefly because he’s terrified of them.
We board the canoe for a 40-minute paddle across the shimmering lake. Within a few minutes we see one of the large and extremely rare Black Caiman, an alligator in South America.
Like the Galapagos cruise, the days at Sandoval are filled with guided tours on and off the water. The day starts at 5:30 am with a boat tour. On our first morning we saw several of the 500 species of birds in the area. Peru has about 1800 different species. There are also 200 species of fish in the lake, including electric eels, stingrays and four types of piranha.
Very impressive, indeed, are the Black Caiman that lurk along the shore. They are abundant. We saw one about three feet long and another about nine feet. Interesting that caiman is afraid of the giant otters that can kill the caiman out of protection by ripping open their soft underbellies with their teeth.
Anacondas also kill caiman for food.
We did not have to wait long to spot the elusive giant otters. One of our paddlers on the first morning spotted some splashing across the lake. As we approached we spotted the family of three – the only family on the lake – fishing for breakfast. They would dive and come up with fish in their teeth. The water is very murky so the otters have to rely on their whiskers to help detect the fish. Piranhas are a favorite and they have learned out of self preservation to only eat them tail first.
A two-hour jungle walk followed breakfast. It started with a little education on the brazil nut, the most important product in the region. Most of know the nut as a Christmas treat, but it isn’t harvested until April of each year. The tree is the tallest in the jungle. It produces a hard and heavy fruit that looks like a coconut. These fall to the ground and when cracked open with a machete, yield 10-20 of the brown brazil nuts.
We now understand why brazil nuts are so expensive. Locals search out for nuts on the floor of the jungle. If they start too early in the season, the nuts have been known to fall and kill an unsuspecting local. Beginners have also lost fingers to razor-sharp machetes. If that isn’t enough, Bushmaster snakes have killed many with their bites. The nuts are then taken into neighboring towns and processed by women for export.
The jungle is an undergraduate course in biology. There is an amazing array of flora and fauna. Among the flora you see are the chocolate tree, mango tree, the plant that produces a natural antidote to malaria, the walking tree (yes, it actually moves about a metre a year towards better sunlight), the rubber tree, Birds of Paradise flowers…….too numerous to name them all.
The days were broken up into different guided tours, usually to try and see specific things. One morning we took off at 5:30 am, paddled for 30 minutes, then hiked in the mud for 30 minutes to a swamp to see blue and gold macaws, parrots and parakeets. There were hundreds of them. We watch a macaw work on building a nest for 15 minutes and two others watched.
Peru is actively setting aside more land every year to protect the Amazon forest. About 15 per cent is now national reserve, compared to 10 per cent about a decade ago, an increase of 50 per cent. Nevertheless, the Amazon basin is in jeopardy under the onslaught of economic activity. An Amazon highway connecting Brazil, Peru and Bolivia is nearing completion, which will only bring more pressures.’
There is no question Sandoval Lake Lodge is in a rain forest. We encounter rain almost daily – none of it light -- and our clothes do not dry. The mosquitoes are better than expected, although we do sleep under bug nets.
April 9-11 – Lima is much different than Quito. For one it is extremely dry, a desert bordered by the Pacific Ocean. It also has more than 8-million people in 43 regions, each having their own mayor and council. Quito seemed large with 2-million. The other thing that strikes you is how cosmopolitan Lima is. It has been influenced by many European countries and the United States. Many of the US chains have a presence here. It was explained to Tony this is due to Peru having good relations historically with many countries, whereas other South American countries have swung back and forth from socialism to capitalism. We stayed in the district of Mira Flores, near the Pacific. It is a fashionable area with good shopping and restaurants and is considered more secure than other parts of Lima. We spent this afternoon on a tour of downtown Lima, which is filled with gorgeous colonial architecture and dotted with cathedrals. It was our first exposure to pre-Inca construction as well, where adobe blocks and mortar were used to help survive a history of earthquakes. Perhaps the highlight was a visit to church catacombs, complete with authentic human skulls and bones. Our guide used the occasion to brief us on earthquakes as we hunched in tiny underground caves.
The church and surroundings were extremely crowded due to Easter celebrations. It was literally wall-to-wall people as we headed into the church. Just inside the gates, Tony heard the clip to his Blackberry holster snap. He’d been using it to keep his camera. The camera was gone, in the hands of one of the masterful pick-pockets that survive stealing from locals and foreigners. A woman saw the crime occur but it was too late to do anything. Later, a magnificent sunset at Love Park almost made us all forgot of the theft.
Nearby Lima is the Pre-Inca Ruins of Pachacamac. These ruins are believed to be among the most important of religious centers for the indigenous people of the central Andes. First occupied by pre-Inca cultures such as the Wari Empire, Pachacamac was later incorporated into the Inca Empire and continued to figure prominently throughout the extended rule of the Incas. Peruvian civilizations predate those found in Egypt, and because of the dryness of Lima artifacts are well-preserved. We saw this first hand later on a tour of the National Museum of Lima. Entrance to this magnificent museum is free but you have the option of taking a guide for the equivalent of $15 soles or USD $5. We opted for the guide and was introduced to Maria, a delightful archeology student and enthusiastic about Peruvian culture and history. She even danced a native jig for us during the tour, captured on video.
The Inca’s receive disproportionate attention, despite only being in power for less than a century in Peru, and leaving no written history.
Our guide Herbert (“or you can call me Luis”) is a 26-year-old Peruvian Indian, drawn to the jungle for its beauty and peacefulness. He also doesn’t due well in the Andes Mountains due to a lung ailment. Herbert speaks four languages and hails from a town of 200. “We all know each other,” he tells Tony.
After distilling our large backpacks into small duffel bags, we head to the Madres de Dios (Mother of God) River, where a 30-foot skinny motor canoe is awaiting. We head southeast for 30 minutes to a ranger station guarding the entrance to the Tambopata National Reserve. This is also the trailhead for our 4-kilometre hike further into the jungle along a path with mud up to a foot deep. We are at the tail-end of the rainy season.
Herbert warns us not to touch anything as there could be poisonous plants and snakes along the way.
A short way in, Alana takes an accidental dive into the mud. She falls again a few minutes later. Non-plussed, we all forge on.
We spot two types of monkeys, out of five in the area, on the way, along with numerous birds and insects. The Gardner ants are busy cutting leafs and moving them along their highways. No snakes are seen, thank goodness.
At the end of the trail, paddle canoes await us with one of our porters at the helm. Surprisingly, he had beaten us there despite carrying the duffel bags of five guests. Even the two porters carrying a large, full propane tank arrive before us.
Robert is our paddler today. He too is a local, who recently turned 18 and can now legally work in Peru. We learn that a few years ago from this same dock, a local Indian was attacked by a seven-foot anaconda snake. The snake lung at him and bit his arm, then wrapped his body around the man and tried to squeeze the life out of him. An amigo fortunately happened upon the attack and shot the snake dead with a shot-gun. The man lived but suffered permanent damage to his arm.
There are several species of snakes at Sandoval. If the anacondas don’t get you, perhaps the bushmaster might. These are ferocious, and bite at about knee height on humans. The lodge keeps a pickled bushmaster in a jar near the buffet table that was killed nearby. If it looks like Tony is preoccupied with snakes, it’s because he is and chiefly because he’s terrified of them.
We board the canoe for a 40-minute paddle across the shimmering lake. Within a few minutes we see one of the large and extremely rare Black Caiman, an alligator in South America.
Like the Galapagos cruise, the days at Sandoval are filled with guided tours on and off the water. The day starts at 5:30 am with a boat tour. On our first morning we saw several of the 500 species of birds in the area. Peru has about 1800 different species. There are also 200 species of fish in the lake, including electric eels, stingrays and four types of piranha.
Very impressive, indeed, are the Black Caiman that lurk along the shore. They are abundant. We saw one about three feet long and another about nine feet. Interesting that caiman is afraid of the giant otters that can kill the caiman out of protection by ripping open their soft underbellies with their teeth.
Anacondas also kill caiman for food.
We did not have to wait long to spot the elusive giant otters. One of our paddlers on the first morning spotted some splashing across the lake. As we approached we spotted the family of three – the only family on the lake – fishing for breakfast. They would dive and come up with fish in their teeth. The water is very murky so the otters have to rely on their whiskers to help detect the fish. Piranhas are a favorite and they have learned out of self preservation to only eat them tail first.
A two-hour jungle walk followed breakfast. It started with a little education on the brazil nut, the most important product in the region. Most of know the nut as a Christmas treat, but it isn’t harvested until April of each year. The tree is the tallest in the jungle. It produces a hard and heavy fruit that looks like a coconut. These fall to the ground and when cracked open with a machete, yield 10-20 of the brown brazil nuts.
We now understand why brazil nuts are so expensive. Locals search out for nuts on the floor of the jungle. If they start too early in the season, the nuts have been known to fall and kill an unsuspecting local. Beginners have also lost fingers to razor-sharp machetes. If that isn’t enough, Bushmaster snakes have killed many with their bites. The nuts are then taken into neighboring towns and processed by women for export.
The jungle is an undergraduate course in biology. There is an amazing array of flora and fauna. Among the flora you see are the chocolate tree, mango tree, the plant that produces a natural antidote to malaria, the walking tree (yes, it actually moves about a metre a year towards better sunlight), the rubber tree, Birds of Paradise flowers…….too numerous to name them all.
The days were broken up into different guided tours, usually to try and see specific things. One morning we took off at 5:30 am, paddled for 30 minutes, then hiked in the mud for 30 minutes to a swamp to see blue and gold macaws, parrots and parakeets. There were hundreds of them. We watch a macaw work on building a nest for 15 minutes and two others watched.
Peru is actively setting aside more land every year to protect the Amazon forest. About 15 per cent is now national reserve, compared to 10 per cent about a decade ago, an increase of 50 per cent. Nevertheless, the Amazon basin is in jeopardy under the onslaught of economic activity. An Amazon highway connecting Brazil, Peru and Bolivia is nearing completion, which will only bring more pressures.’
There is no question Sandoval Lake Lodge is in a rain forest. We encounter rain almost daily – none of it light -- and our clothes do not dry. The mosquitoes are better than expected, although we do sleep under bug nets.
April 9-11 – Lima is much different than Quito. For one it is extremely dry, a desert bordered by the Pacific Ocean. It also has more than 8-million people in 43 regions, each having their own mayor and council. Quito seemed large with 2-million. The other thing that strikes you is how cosmopolitan Lima is. It has been influenced by many European countries and the United States. Many of the US chains have a presence here. It was explained to Tony this is due to Peru having good relations historically with many countries, whereas other South American countries have swung back and forth from socialism to capitalism. We stayed in the district of Mira Flores, near the Pacific. It is a fashionable area with good shopping and restaurants and is considered more secure than other parts of Lima. We spent this afternoon on a tour of downtown Lima, which is filled with gorgeous colonial architecture and dotted with cathedrals. It was our first exposure to pre-Inca construction as well, where adobe blocks and mortar were used to help survive a history of earthquakes. Perhaps the highlight was a visit to church catacombs, complete with authentic human skulls and bones. Our guide used the occasion to brief us on earthquakes as we hunched in tiny underground caves.
The church and surroundings were extremely crowded due to Easter celebrations. It was literally wall-to-wall people as we headed into the church. Just inside the gates, Tony heard the clip to his Blackberry holster snap. He’d been using it to keep his camera. The camera was gone, in the hands of one of the masterful pick-pockets that survive stealing from locals and foreigners. A woman saw the crime occur but it was too late to do anything. Later, a magnificent sunset at Love Park almost made us all forgot of the theft.
Nearby Lima is the Pre-Inca Ruins of Pachacamac. These ruins are believed to be among the most important of religious centers for the indigenous people of the central Andes. First occupied by pre-Inca cultures such as the Wari Empire, Pachacamac was later incorporated into the Inca Empire and continued to figure prominently throughout the extended rule of the Incas. Peruvian civilizations predate those found in Egypt, and because of the dryness of Lima artifacts are well-preserved. We saw this first hand later on a tour of the National Museum of Lima. Entrance to this magnificent museum is free but you have the option of taking a guide for the equivalent of $15 soles or USD $5. We opted for the guide and was introduced to Maria, a delightful archeology student and enthusiastic about Peruvian culture and history. She even danced a native jig for us during the tour, captured on video.
The Inca’s receive disproportionate attention, despite only being in power for less than a century in Peru, and leaving no written history.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
April 6 – Later in the day we arrived back in Quito, via Guayaquil. We were exhausted so we treated ourselves to room service and were asleep by 9:00 pm.
April 7 – We awoke early for a trip into the Andes Mountains in an old 4x4 Land Cruiser stacked high with kayaks with our guide Miguel and driver Caesar. Our destination was Lake Cucuta, a large lake in an active volcanic crater. In the middle are two large islands created by past eruptions (the last 2000 years ago). As a reminder of its current activity, you paddle over an area where air bubbles seep up from under the lake to the surface. It’s crystal clear with a greenish color. There are no fish. It is 300 feet at its deepest. There are 200-foot cliffs surrounding the lack, which appear to run straight to the bottom of the lake.
Our adventure started with the guides launching the kayaks over the cliffs and we follow switch-back paths down that look like that they haven’t been walked on in years. We launch the kayaks from behind six-foot high reeds that ring the lake. We will visit a lake in Bolivia where islands have been manufactured by Indians out of similar reeds.
Tony and Alana shared a two-man inflatable kayak nicknamed the “barge.” Ruth had a sleek single kayak. You can guess who paddled most of the time in the barge.
We paddled for about 2 ½-hours under beautiful warm rains with just a whisper of wind. A picnic lunch awaited us. It included fresh avocados and chirrimoya (a green palm side fruit containing hard oval brown seeds and soft light colored pulp, the sweet edible part). Both were picked up at a roadside stand on the way up.
During the drive we joked that we might run into our friends from California we met on the ship, slated to overnight nearby. Who should arrive during lunch?
On way back to Quito we made a detour to Otavalo, an Indian market in the Andes. Good thing we only budgeted 30 minutes at the market. During the short time we bought to Alpaca sweater jackets, a native flute and a wood blanket. Change or cambio is always difficult to get in South America for large bills as the vendors are struggling entrepreneurs. Tony was only carrying a $100 bill. “No problemo,” said the tiny woman, who had hand-knitted the sweaters. With that she disappeared looking for one of her amigos to help make change. Tony had a furrowed brow, thinking after 10 minutes had past that he would never see his change again. Finally, out of the corner of his eye, the women could be seen sprinting back waiving at Tony. It’s an enduring memory for Tony.
Back in Quito, we dined on authentic Ecuadorian cuisine – Alana talked us into sushi at the hotel.
April 8 – This was a lazy day. After many pre-dawn wake-ups, we slept in and worked on the first posting of the blog. We headed out for lunch in one of the popular squares at Mama Colinda’s, recommended to us by a friend from the ship. We sampled the soup called fanesca, which is an Easter week soup made of squash and 12 legumes. It is very hearty, almost a meal. It wasn’t Alana’s favorite. We left on a late flight for Lima that night. I should note that the influence of Calgarians is found in small does almost everywhere. In the Lima airport, we found ourselves standing behind a Calgarian who has been active in oil and gas in Ecuador. We knew many people in common.
April 9 – Lima is much different than Quito. For one it is extremely dry, a desert bordered by the Pacific Ocean. It also has more than 8-million people in 43 regions, each having their own mayor and council. Quito seemed large with 2-million. The other thing that strikes you is how cosmopolitan Lima is. It has been influenced by many European countries and the United States. Many of the US chains have a presence here. It was explained to Tony this is due to Peru having good relations historically with many countries, whereas other South American countries have swung back and forth from socialism to capitalism. We stayed in the district of Mira Flores, near the Pacific. It is a fashionable area with good shopping and restaurants and is considered more secure than other parts of Lima. We spent this afternoon on a tour of downtown Lima, which is filled with gorgeous colonial architecture and dotted with cathedrals. It was our first exposure to pre-Inca construction as well, where adobe blocks and mortar were used to help survive a history of earthquakes. Perhaps the highlight was a visit to church catacombs, complete with authentic human skulls and bones. Our guide used the occasion to brief us on earthquakes as we hunched in tiny underground caves.
The church and surroundings were extremely crowded due to Easter celebrations. It was literally wall-to-wall people as we headed into the church. Just inside the gates, Tony heard the clip to his Blackberry holster snap. He’d been using it to keep his camera. The camera was gone, in the hands of one of the masterful pick-pockets that survive stealing from locals and foreigners. A woman saw the crime occur but it was too late to do anything. Later, a magnificent sunset at Love Park almost made us all forgot of the theft.
April 7 – We awoke early for a trip into the Andes Mountains in an old 4x4 Land Cruiser stacked high with kayaks with our guide Miguel and driver Caesar. Our destination was Lake Cucuta, a large lake in an active volcanic crater. In the middle are two large islands created by past eruptions (the last 2000 years ago). As a reminder of its current activity, you paddle over an area where air bubbles seep up from under the lake to the surface. It’s crystal clear with a greenish color. There are no fish. It is 300 feet at its deepest. There are 200-foot cliffs surrounding the lack, which appear to run straight to the bottom of the lake.
Our adventure started with the guides launching the kayaks over the cliffs and we follow switch-back paths down that look like that they haven’t been walked on in years. We launch the kayaks from behind six-foot high reeds that ring the lake. We will visit a lake in Bolivia where islands have been manufactured by Indians out of similar reeds.
Tony and Alana shared a two-man inflatable kayak nicknamed the “barge.” Ruth had a sleek single kayak. You can guess who paddled most of the time in the barge.
We paddled for about 2 ½-hours under beautiful warm rains with just a whisper of wind. A picnic lunch awaited us. It included fresh avocados and chirrimoya (a green palm side fruit containing hard oval brown seeds and soft light colored pulp, the sweet edible part). Both were picked up at a roadside stand on the way up.
During the drive we joked that we might run into our friends from California we met on the ship, slated to overnight nearby. Who should arrive during lunch?
On way back to Quito we made a detour to Otavalo, an Indian market in the Andes. Good thing we only budgeted 30 minutes at the market. During the short time we bought to Alpaca sweater jackets, a native flute and a wood blanket. Change or cambio is always difficult to get in South America for large bills as the vendors are struggling entrepreneurs. Tony was only carrying a $100 bill. “No problemo,” said the tiny woman, who had hand-knitted the sweaters. With that she disappeared looking for one of her amigos to help make change. Tony had a furrowed brow, thinking after 10 minutes had past that he would never see his change again. Finally, out of the corner of his eye, the women could be seen sprinting back waiving at Tony. It’s an enduring memory for Tony.
Back in Quito, we dined on authentic Ecuadorian cuisine – Alana talked us into sushi at the hotel.
April 8 – This was a lazy day. After many pre-dawn wake-ups, we slept in and worked on the first posting of the blog. We headed out for lunch in one of the popular squares at Mama Colinda’s, recommended to us by a friend from the ship. We sampled the soup called fanesca, which is an Easter week soup made of squash and 12 legumes. It is very hearty, almost a meal. It wasn’t Alana’s favorite. We left on a late flight for Lima that night. I should note that the influence of Calgarians is found in small does almost everywhere. In the Lima airport, we found ourselves standing behind a Calgarian who has been active in oil and gas in Ecuador. We knew many people in common.
April 9 – Lima is much different than Quito. For one it is extremely dry, a desert bordered by the Pacific Ocean. It also has more than 8-million people in 43 regions, each having their own mayor and council. Quito seemed large with 2-million. The other thing that strikes you is how cosmopolitan Lima is. It has been influenced by many European countries and the United States. Many of the US chains have a presence here. It was explained to Tony this is due to Peru having good relations historically with many countries, whereas other South American countries have swung back and forth from socialism to capitalism. We stayed in the district of Mira Flores, near the Pacific. It is a fashionable area with good shopping and restaurants and is considered more secure than other parts of Lima. We spent this afternoon on a tour of downtown Lima, which is filled with gorgeous colonial architecture and dotted with cathedrals. It was our first exposure to pre-Inca construction as well, where adobe blocks and mortar were used to help survive a history of earthquakes. Perhaps the highlight was a visit to church catacombs, complete with authentic human skulls and bones. Our guide used the occasion to brief us on earthquakes as we hunched in tiny underground caves.
The church and surroundings were extremely crowded due to Easter celebrations. It was literally wall-to-wall people as we headed into the church. Just inside the gates, Tony heard the clip to his Blackberry holster snap. He’d been using it to keep his camera. The camera was gone, in the hands of one of the masterful pick-pockets that survive stealing from locals and foreigners. A woman saw the crime occur but it was too late to do anything. Later, a magnificent sunset at Love Park almost made us all forgot of the theft.
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Ecuador and Galapagos Islands
March 31 – We arrived in Quito without our luggage after a very eventful day travelling from Cancun. Our flight out of Mexico was delayed, setting off alarm bells that we would miss our connecting flight in Houston. We arrived in Texas with only 25 minutes to clear customs and immigration and get through security and make it to our gate at George Bush International. What ensued could not be repeated in a 1000 attempts. We pushed and cajoled our way through immigration and again through security. With three minutes to spare, we took off in full sprint through the terminal. Alana did not look back and arrived at the gate as they were closing the doors to the plane. The Continental Airlines rep radioed ahead. Ruth arrived next, followed by Tony. All of us were breathless and sweaty as we took our seats. The bags weren’t as quick. We went a day without anything we packed and fretted that the luggage would arrive the next day as we need to depart to Galapagos. About six hours before we had to depart for the islands, the bags arrived to the hotel in the middle of the night.
April 1 – We had a morning tour of old town Quito on a beautiful sunny day. The city is at 9000 feet and is nestled in the Andes Mountains on the equator, resting on a plateau. It is surrounded by snow-capped volcanos. The most recent eruption was 1999. Most of Quito was conquered by the Spaniards in the 1500s, before which the Inca’s destroyed what they had built on purpose before the Spaniards arrived.
Alana loved the huge cathedral that was covered on the inside with gold leaf. It was so detailed that when the church was restored a few decades ago it could only be cleaned using solvent on q-tips.
Although it has near perfect weather year-round and unparallel natural beauty, citizens live with the acute awareness that earthquakes and volcanic eruptions pose a constant threat. You can almost set your watch by the sunrise and sunset as it doesn’t change. Regardless of skin color, citizens and visitors wear sunscreen and hats due to the intensity of the sun.
Contrary to popular thinking in North America, Ecuador is not a violent or dangerous country. We found no threat walking the streets.
In the afternoon, we toured a museum on the equator and straddled the line with our feet. The sun was truly right above our heads and at noon there was no shadow. The museum also housed an exhibit of all the different peoples and cultures that still exist today throughout the country. There are some 25 in four distinct geographical and climatic regions: Amazon, the Andes Mountains, the Coast and the Galapagos. It made it feel that nine days in Ecuador is simply not enough.
Alana appreciated the diversity of native people in Ecuador.
April 2 – We took an early morning flight to the Galapagos via the coastal port of Guayaquil. It is only a 30 minute flight from Quito but Aero Gal managed to serve a full flight drinks and snacks. On the 90 minute leg from Guayaquil to Galapagos, we got lunch and drinks. It makes North American airlines look pretty pathetic. In Galapagos we boarded the M/V Legend with 94 of our closest friends from Europe, the US, South America and Canada. The first person Tony saw stepping on board was none other than former Prime Minister Paul Martin and his wife Sheila. They took a last minute detour on the way back from a conference in Chile. He was impressed we new some Liberals in Alberta, the few that are in the province, including Rob Van Walleghem, who helped him on his election campaigns. We found Paul and Sheila to be very likeable and they left quite an impression on people they met. You could pick out the Canadians by those who recognized him. Within the next hour we met an economist from Ottawa who worked for Martin when he was finance minister. She was surprised as we were to find him on the same ship. Truly a small world.
April 2-6 – Over the next five days we saw most of the islands and had stops on six. What struck us was how diverse the islands were from each other in terms of flora and fauna and marine life. This was due to the age of the volcanic islands and their elevation and climate. The higher islands get more rain fall. The first island we visited was like moonscape with virtually no vegetation or animal life, while another was like a rain forest with mucho plants and animals. Alana’s highlights were:
· Seeing penguins on Bartholme Island, our first stop.
· Getting up close and personal with vegetarian land iguanas and marine iguanas – both very prehistoric looking. She loved how marine iguanas snorted excess salt into the air after eating algae from the Pacific Ocean.
· Being within a few feet of sea lions on the beach, one which almost took a chunk out of one of our group members.
· Playing “The Shark” in the Neptune cabaret show. Ruth played a pirate. Tony hid in the back, posing as the official photographer, but was pulled into the show from one of the actors.
· Touring a volcano inhabit Ted by giant tortoises.
The trip was fascinating and very active. We had little down time. Every morning at 6:45 or earlier we awoke to music and a far too-happy greeting in Spanish and English through the PA system. The rest of the day was quite regimented, leaving us little down time.
We were one of the youngest families on the tour, but had the good fortune of dining each meal with a California family with a son Alana’s age. It was amazing how similar the two are in interests and disposition. They are interested in visiting us during the Calgary Stampede.
Most of the travelers were brave to handle the rigorous land and sea tours, keeping up a good pace hiking and snorkeling. Just getting on and off the pangas or dingys was a workout.
It takes all kinds. We were captivated and amused by the extravagant dress of one family who were surely guessed were Italian with their designer wardrobe. On one hike, the mother wore a poke-a-dot knee length dress with three-inch wedge heels and a floppy red hat. This was on an island with jagged volcanic rock and so many marine iguanas you would easily accidently step on them. Tony couldn’t resist capturing her in a photo. Every meal they wore a different ensemble and sometimes the same thing hiking. Turns out they were from Mexico City.
Galapagos was described to us as a zoo without cages and it lived up to the description. How Darwin was influenced was everywhere. We could see the adaptive changes as moved from island to island. We would highly recommend travel to the Galapagos.
April 1 – We had a morning tour of old town Quito on a beautiful sunny day. The city is at 9000 feet and is nestled in the Andes Mountains on the equator, resting on a plateau. It is surrounded by snow-capped volcanos. The most recent eruption was 1999. Most of Quito was conquered by the Spaniards in the 1500s, before which the Inca’s destroyed what they had built on purpose before the Spaniards arrived.
Alana loved the huge cathedral that was covered on the inside with gold leaf. It was so detailed that when the church was restored a few decades ago it could only be cleaned using solvent on q-tips.
Although it has near perfect weather year-round and unparallel natural beauty, citizens live with the acute awareness that earthquakes and volcanic eruptions pose a constant threat. You can almost set your watch by the sunrise and sunset as it doesn’t change. Regardless of skin color, citizens and visitors wear sunscreen and hats due to the intensity of the sun.
Contrary to popular thinking in North America, Ecuador is not a violent or dangerous country. We found no threat walking the streets.
In the afternoon, we toured a museum on the equator and straddled the line with our feet. The sun was truly right above our heads and at noon there was no shadow. The museum also housed an exhibit of all the different peoples and cultures that still exist today throughout the country. There are some 25 in four distinct geographical and climatic regions: Amazon, the Andes Mountains, the Coast and the Galapagos. It made it feel that nine days in Ecuador is simply not enough.
Alana appreciated the diversity of native people in Ecuador.
April 2 – We took an early morning flight to the Galapagos via the coastal port of Guayaquil. It is only a 30 minute flight from Quito but Aero Gal managed to serve a full flight drinks and snacks. On the 90 minute leg from Guayaquil to Galapagos, we got lunch and drinks. It makes North American airlines look pretty pathetic. In Galapagos we boarded the M/V Legend with 94 of our closest friends from Europe, the US, South America and Canada. The first person Tony saw stepping on board was none other than former Prime Minister Paul Martin and his wife Sheila. They took a last minute detour on the way back from a conference in Chile. He was impressed we new some Liberals in Alberta, the few that are in the province, including Rob Van Walleghem, who helped him on his election campaigns. We found Paul and Sheila to be very likeable and they left quite an impression on people they met. You could pick out the Canadians by those who recognized him. Within the next hour we met an economist from Ottawa who worked for Martin when he was finance minister. She was surprised as we were to find him on the same ship. Truly a small world.
April 2-6 – Over the next five days we saw most of the islands and had stops on six. What struck us was how diverse the islands were from each other in terms of flora and fauna and marine life. This was due to the age of the volcanic islands and their elevation and climate. The higher islands get more rain fall. The first island we visited was like moonscape with virtually no vegetation or animal life, while another was like a rain forest with mucho plants and animals. Alana’s highlights were:
· Seeing penguins on Bartholme Island, our first stop.
· Getting up close and personal with vegetarian land iguanas and marine iguanas – both very prehistoric looking. She loved how marine iguanas snorted excess salt into the air after eating algae from the Pacific Ocean.
· Being within a few feet of sea lions on the beach, one which almost took a chunk out of one of our group members.
· Playing “The Shark” in the Neptune cabaret show. Ruth played a pirate. Tony hid in the back, posing as the official photographer, but was pulled into the show from one of the actors.
· Touring a volcano inhabit Ted by giant tortoises.
The trip was fascinating and very active. We had little down time. Every morning at 6:45 or earlier we awoke to music and a far too-happy greeting in Spanish and English through the PA system. The rest of the day was quite regimented, leaving us little down time.
We were one of the youngest families on the tour, but had the good fortune of dining each meal with a California family with a son Alana’s age. It was amazing how similar the two are in interests and disposition. They are interested in visiting us during the Calgary Stampede.
Most of the travelers were brave to handle the rigorous land and sea tours, keeping up a good pace hiking and snorkeling. Just getting on and off the pangas or dingys was a workout.
It takes all kinds. We were captivated and amused by the extravagant dress of one family who were surely guessed were Italian with their designer wardrobe. On one hike, the mother wore a poke-a-dot knee length dress with three-inch wedge heels and a floppy red hat. This was on an island with jagged volcanic rock and so many marine iguanas you would easily accidently step on them. Tony couldn’t resist capturing her in a photo. Every meal they wore a different ensemble and sometimes the same thing hiking. Turns out they were from Mexico City.
Galapagos was described to us as a zoo without cages and it lived up to the description. How Darwin was influenced was everywhere. We could see the adaptive changes as moved from island to island. We would highly recommend travel to the Galapagos.
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